On the Road to The Original Brazil

After a couple days' preparation in Sao Paulo for the Round of 16 match with Belgium, the US Soccer Media Program picked up again, this time to travel to Salvador, home of Arena Fonte Nova, site of the July 1st match. Arriving  early afternoon, we were too late to attend the US training session, held away from the stadium, due to FIFA's concerns about preservation of the playing surface.

Traveling directly from the Salvador airport, after the two-hour flight, to Fonte Nova, we were in time for the press conference, and for my purposes, it was the chance for a quick five-minute photo op of Jurgen Klinsmann and captain Clint Dempsey, then, as usual, all the photographers are asked to leave so the 'real' journalists can have their time for questions. After a few minutes work on the wireless network in the SMC, I chose to ride the FIFA shuttle to the hotel, and beat the check-in rush.

Our accommodations in Salvador came with strong reviews, but the reality is the property fell well short of those expectations. Well located on bayside Salvadoran peninsula, the Sol Victoria Marina, has a lovely bar/cafe, overlooking the bay.

The ambience ends once you get pick up your key, a real metal key, only one to a room, then get in the elevator and head to your room. All the lights on the floor are off, and the hall dark, until your movement trips the motion sensors. Naturally, in a city of 3.5  millions, but only four FIFA hotels, the properties use the opportunity as their own little gold rush. For one night's stay, a double, was $700, with Nick Firchau from MLSSoccer.com, and I splitting the cost. Remember, we are 'double booked' paying for our rooms back at our Sao Paulo base hotel as well.

Admittedly, we did have a 'water view', look very closely and you can see where the bay and Atlantic ocean meet between the buildings. No, seriously, click on the picture and make it bigger the water's there, I swear.

We watched the end of the Germany-Algeria match at the hotel, then headed out to Old Town, for a local eating establishment, 'MamaBahia'. This region was the first area of Brazil settled by the Portuguese, due in large part to the largest natural bay in South America. Until the mid-20th century, the city, as well as the state, were called Bahia, and this remains the largest area of African culture in Brazil.

Some of the buildings date back to the 17th century, many being made with marble and limestone brought from Portugal as ballast in their sailing ships. Much of Old Town was festively dressed, as July 2nd is their Independence Day, when the colony separated from Portugal. Every year, a procession follows the path of the colonists, who expelled the Portuguese from the area in 1823.

On this night, the procession had a German flair as this small procession of celebrating fans made their way past our table, and down the winding streets of Old Town. Oh, I have I not mentioned, the tables for 'MamaBahia' are literally in the street, and the menu features some local flavor, which being on the coast, of course means a variety of seafood, with a local culinary flair.

Not being squeamish, I opted for the local stew of shrimp and octopus, with the stew served over rice. Believe me, it was delicious, and was washed down with a couple of the famous Brazilian 'caipirinha', which is similar to a mojito, just without the rum, which is substituted with an alcohol made from sugar cane, as is rum, just differently, so I'm told.

Other than the fact US Soccer picked up the tab, unexpectedly, for this Media Program dinner, the other really special part was my sitting across from Dave Barry, who is married to the soccer writer from the Miami Herald. Dave, and their teenage daughter, joined up with their wife/mom in Rio de Janeiro, prior to traveling to Salvador.

For those of you not raised in the 'newspaper generation', Dave is a Pulitzer Prize-winning author and humorist, who wrote a nationally-syndicated column, based with the Miami Herald, from 1983 until 2005. He is one of my favorite contemporary columnists, but I avoided being a 'fan boy', and just used the opportunity to have a 'get-acquainted' conversation.

The next morning was Match Day 56, and I was up and out early, on the first FIFA Media Shuttle to the stadium. The stadium, located near Old Town, is in a valley, near the water, and the day broke beautifully, with the chance of showers never materializing. The prettiest day we've had in Brazil, I'm near the beach, but my mission lay elsewhere.

All contents of this blog, written and photographic, are copyrighted 2014, All Rights Reserved, by Perry McIntyre - Atlanta, GA.